The secrets of cattle farming in the south of France

Montricoux is an ancient place. Though the town itself is medieval, these plains have seen human occupation since prehistory. Just outside of town is the Ferme de Las Planes, a 75-hectare farm focusing on the production of the Blonde d’Aquitaine and poultry. Of those 75 hectares, 30 is reserved for the production of cereals to feed their livestock, allowing the farm a measure of self-sufficiency. In fact, within France, 84 percent of cattle feed is often produced on the same farm, including grass and cereals.  

Guillaume Audouy, a farmer on the Ferme de Las Planes, is responsible for the wellbeing of the herd. His days begin early, tending to their needs. The Blonde d'Aquitaine, named for their signature golden coats, are a relatively new breed, born in 1962 as the result of the merging of three existing breeds: the Garonnais, the Quercy, and the Blond des Pyrénées from southwest France. With their gentle nature and calm temperament, they’re relatively easy to manage. However, Guillaume's attention to detail is crucial, especially during calving season. 

“The Blonde d’Aquitaine is a fertile breed, and they can have calves relatively easily,” Guillaume explains in an interview with Taste France. “They’re good mothers; they adore and take care of their calves.” 

On average, French farms keep a maximum of around sixty head of cattle. Guillaume's herd numbers thirty. His ambition is to maximise the welfare of his cows, a factor which influences the quality of the meat.  

An adaptable breed  

France boasts the largest herd of cattle within Europe, with 18 million heads of cattle split across three main breeds: the Limousin, the Charolaise, and the Blonde d’Aquitaine—renowned, and raised on 142,500 smaller farms. 

In addition to its gentle temperament, the Blonde d’Aquitaine is well known for its adaptability and the quality of its meat. The breed thrives equally in hot and cold temperatures, and is now present everywhere, from the sunny climes of Portugal to the snowy reaches of Canada.  

Regardless of their location, these animals produce a higher yield of so-called ‘noble cuts,’ with meat that is typically tender, low in fat and with a clean taste thanks to their diet of grass supplemented by cereals like barley with alfalfa and clover. They’re just as well suited to a burger as they are elevated with Joël Robuchon’s Michelin-starred mashed potatoes. They are particularly well suited to red wines from Medoc, and pair well with earthy flavours: think Roquefort, mushrooms and shallots, or a deep red wine sauce.   

Happy cows make for better beef, so the farm ensures the herd is able to access wide, clear pastures as well as a warm shelter to return to as needed. 

“They have access to several fields across the farm,” explains Guillaume. “They always have fresh grass to eat.” 

French farm respectability 

But when it comes to ruminant breeding within France, the country models sustainable and responsible production. Animal welfare is the main priority, and is characterised by grass-feeding and discourages mass farming at industrial levels. Instead, production is at a human scale, and maintains a strong link with the land by contributing to soil fertility—essential for crop cultivation—and preserves biodiversity by maintaining natural resources.  

For example, Guillaume’s herd grazes the farms pastures, limiting the need for fertilisers. They also offset about 30 percent of their methane emissions by storing carbon in the soil. Importantly, they are also raised without hormones or antibiotics. 

This same consideration is given to the birds under Guillaume’s care. Around 2,500 chickens range free on the farm, alongside guinea fowl—called pintade in French—and ducks.  

Guillaume’s family has been farming this land for many generations, and it’s a tradition he is proud to continue. Today, the farm has opened its doors to the public to allow them a glimpse into the life of a working farm. They also sell their products to the public, direct to the consumer, which Guillaume enjoys. 

“I find it super rewarding,” smiles Guillaume.