Anjou wines: hitting the right notes

Vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see among the rolling hills of this lush valley, dotted with turrets, spires and even the odd château on the horizon. “We are standing here in the Domaine des Coteaux Blancs in Anjou, with the Loire at our back and the Layon on the other side,” says Jannik Jarry Barault, as he walks between the rows of trellises. From behind his round glasses, this young man in his fifties wears a determined expression as he proudly tells us how he is the fourth in his family to practise this trade.  

The king of whites 

Across more than 20 hectares, rows upon rows of grape varieties, from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon to smaller parcelles of Pineau d’Aunis, Grolleau and Gamay catch the light. But the star of this domain is undoubtedly the Chenin Blanc, an ancient grape variety that has been cultivated since as far back as the ninth century! 

Jannik, whose father and brother own vineyards of their own not too far from Domaine des Coteaux Blancs, acquired the estate less than three years ago. A true son of the soil, he learned the ropes of the trade through hands-on experience, working on the ground until the age of 22.  “The protected location of this estate and the schist-based terroir makes it particularly conducive to making dry whites,” explains Jannik.  
 

Indeed, the proximity of the Layon River lends a freshness to the grape that is ideal for producing the crisp but underrated whites that characterise this region. Being sandwiched between two rivers also makes for a milder climate, sheltered from adverse events like hail: these can be catastrophic for the harvest. “This combination of climate and terroir means that we are always innovating. We can now make wines that we didn’t have the know-how for a few years ago.”  

This part of the Loire Valley is called the Anjou-Saumur or the middle Loire. Here, the limestone soils to the East give way to sandy, chalky, clay, granite or schist soils, each imparting their own unique characteristics to the grape. It is no wonder that the region is home to over 27 distinct wine appellations with a range spanning whites, reds, rosés, sparkling and even dessert wines! A million hectolitres of wine are produced here, with the Chenin holding pride of place among the white grape varieties. 

Straddling tradition and modernity 

The overwhelming domination of the Chenin varietal at Domaine des Coteaux Blancs does not mean a poverty of range: quite the contrary. As Jannik explains, the Chenin harvest is used to make wines as different as the Anjou Blanc, a bright, dry white, the Coteaux de Layon, a well-balanced, sweet wine and the Crémant de Loire bubbly, which is a blend of Chenin and Chardonnay.  

“To make dry whites, we pick the grapes when they are perfectly ripe, while for dessert wines, we let botrytis set in. This is a form of noble rot that increases the concentration of sugar content in each grape.” Here in the estate, as in many other parts of the Loire, the vineyards are managed in traditional fashion: the grapevines are pruned starting December, and the plants are then nurtured carefully through the budding and flowering process. Within a hundred days of flowering, the grape bunches are assessed scientifically to check for alcohol and acidity content as well as PH levels: this is where modern techniques come in. 

Depending on the desired style, winemakers may choose to ferment the pressed grape juice in stainless steel for a clean, crisp profile or in oak barrels for added complexity and richness, as is the case at Domaine des Coteaux Blancs. The ageing process can also vary significantly. Dry Chenin wines are often bottled young, while sweeter styles, such as Vouvray Moelleux, may age for several years to develop deeper flavours and complexity. “My quest is always to recreate the exact feeling as when I first tasted the grape,” exults Jannik “and there is no greater pleasure than finally getting to share the resulting wine with others!” 

Raise your glass 

With changing climatic conditions and difficulties in storage, the variability in harvest is proving to be a real challenge for wine-makers in this region, but 20% of the 250 million bottles of wine made in the Loire Valley are destined for export. 
 
2023 was a bumper harvest, says Jannik, which means that the time is ripe – pun intended –  to make a beeline for delicious and high-quality wines made from Chenin, an unfussy but joyful variety that can accompany any gastronomic feast. The astonishing versatility of Chenin-based wines make them a remarkable companion for food: the possibilities for pairing are truly endless. 

For instance, the high acidity and crisp flavours of the dry whites make them an ideal companion for seafood. Consider pairing a bone-dry Chenin with oysters, seafood or a delicious grilled lobster. A dry Crémant de Loire, for example, will serve as a good counterpoint to the earthy flavours of the dish and accentuate the citrusy freshness of the seasoning while bringing out the inherent sweetness of the lobster meat. 

Similarly, a sweeter Chenin can harmonise well with desserts or contrast beautifully with saltier flavours, making it the ideal match for cheese plates. Pour yourself a Coteaux de Layon and watch as it reveals a different flavour profile with a sweet appetiser like these pear, walnut and Roquefort verrines, a savoury starter like this melon, blue cheese and ham salad or this earthy walnut, beetroot and blue d’Auvergne ravioli main. As they say in the Loire Valley, every sip is sure to tell a story. There is something for every palate, every occasion and every budget with Chenin, earning this humble yet sophisticated variety a spot at the table. It’s time for Chenin to shine!